There is a lack of pretension about this "little wolf", the very comfortable newcomer next to Bar Lourinha at the top end of Little Collins Street. The statement is made by the menu and wine list looking they were typed on an old typewriter - straightforward and unflashy - but promising food and wine at very realistic prices. Both menu and wine list show thought and care, and the food that appears is more about fine, authentic Italian flavours than fancy presentation. Pastas have that nonna-made touch, but when your nonna was a fabulous cook, while other dishes may show more refinement. Combine that with the feeling of hospitality with a capital "H" and many more expensive, fancier Italian restaurants in the city should be looking over their shoulders. WINE: A smart Italo-Asutralian list with ample choice and reaonable value.